Garden Route National Park (Wildernes, Knysna, Tsitsikamma)

Nature Reserves, Champion Trees, Forest Birding and a whole lot more.

(Stilbaai, Ebb and Flow rest camp, Goukamma Nature Reserve, Plettenberg Bay, Natures Valley, Diepwalle Forest Knysna.

23 December 2020

(Diepwalle Knysna forest, one of the walking trails we explored)

Living along the West Coast of South Africa and enjoying numerous seaside activities, it is always exciting to disappear into the forest during our annual year-end break. This year, we decided to spend Christmas on the Garden Route, visiting unique nature reserves and mystical indigenous forests.

These reserves would serve as a base camp from which we combined day trips to explore the surrounding area in search of Champion Trees, exciting walking trails and elusive forest birds.

 

(Knysna Turaco, a splash of colour as it darts through the forest canopy)

 

The 1000-year-old grandfather of Stilbaai was irresistible, a true Champion. This automatically became our first stop, helping with the long drive, and besides, we had never visited this quaint, historic seaside village.

 

(Freshwater tame eels in Stilbaai, feeding time at the Information Centre, these eels return to the sea to breed )

 

(Ancient Fish Traps dating back 3000 years were built by the Khoisan)

 

(Eurasian Curlew, feeding near the estuary mouth at Stilbaai)

Day one, Feeding tame eels at Pallinggat Homestead, admiring the ancient fish traps near Jongensfontein and scouting the river estuary’s natural beauty for some local birds, was the order of the day.

(As you turn off the N2 towards Stilbaai)

 

 

(The bridge that takes you over the Goukou River into town Central and surrounds)

Despite the second wave of lockdown conditions, Stilbaai appeared to be very busy with eager tourists. Escaping the masses and heading deep into the coastal fynbos was most pleasurable, searching for the Champion white milkwood tree in the Langbos coastal forest (Langbos se Oupa).

(How fortunate we were to capture this juvenile Spotted eagle owl, one of two)

 

Despite the wind damage to this ancient colossus, it was beautiful to admire what must have been a noble milkwood, standing at an impressive 14m in height. According to Alta Kleinhans, who owns the farm Duinekroon, where this remarkable tree finds its home, bees make hives in the tree, thus weakening the structure and resulting in some of the main branches breaking off. Seeing the Champion in such a neglected and mournful state was sad, but this is nature, and we must accept it.

(Forest Cabin no.25, right on the Touw River at the Ebb and Flow rest camp)

 

(looking at the Ebb and Flow rest camp with Wilderness in the background)

 

On day two, we were on our way to the well-run Ebb and Flow rest camp managed by Sanparks, which forms part of the Greater Garden Route National Park. Situated along the south coast of South Africa lies one of the most beautiful stretches of coastline in the world. We were lucky to be able to call this home over the next few days.

(Keurbooms River estuary as it enters the warm Indian Ocean at Plettenberg Bay)

 

(The sun setting at the lakes section of the Garden Route National Park.)

 

This area encompasses the world-renowned Tsitsikamma, Wilderness, and Knysna areas. We were looking for tranquility combined with an action-packed holiday experience. We booked a three-night stay in the self-catering forest cabins on the Touw River banks. How fortunate we were to secure this venue at the Ebb and Flow rest camp.

(Mirror water disturbed by ducks, a tranquil setting in the Plettenberg Bay area)

(Serpentine River as it links from Island Lake to join the Touw River)

 

Having researched a list of target forest birds for our adventure, we set ourselves a goal of ten new birds for our life list. A challenging task, so we contacted some local birders in this area to assist with suitable sites for these target birds.

(Half-Collared Kingfisher Walking Trail, this ends at the waterfall and a welcomed swim in the river)

(Touw river as seen from one of the walking trails)

 

(North Camp view from the Half-collared Kingfisher Trail)

 

The Half Collard and Giant Kingfisher walking trails are where the gruelling task of locating some of the rare forest birds began. Forest birding is no easy task; low light, skittish birds, and poor visibility through the forest canopy make it difficult to secure a good photo.

(Woodville Big Tree, Outeniqua Yellowwood, Champion Tree and well over 800 years old)

 

(The waterfall at the end of the Giant Kingfisher trail a delightful location for a picnic and a swim)

 

(A view of the walking trail and the lush Indigenous forest)

 

The Woodville Big Tree is a short drive from the Ebb and Flow, our third Champion Tree on our list. A reliable source confirmed this location for the very shy Chorister Robin-Chat. We appreciated this 810-year-old Outeniqua Yellowwood Champion Tree while enjoying echoing bird melodies and the smell of damp undergrowth. Exiting the walkway past the Big Tree, we scanned the picnic area, looking for the Chorister Robin. On queue, he was, hustling scraps from the day visitors, delight as we ticked off our first target bird. It wasn’t long before we had a Grey Cuckooshrike in full view, another significant find.

(Chotister Robin-Chat, seen at the picnic site at the Woodville Big Tree)

 

(This was our first Narina Trogon as seen at the Plettenberg Bay Golf course; such a remarkable forest bird)

 

(A rare glimpse of the Grey Cuckoo Shrike at the Diepwalle Camping Decks; we also ticked one off, at the Woodville Big Tree)

 

My early morning Half Collard kingfisher walk yielded some more Chorister robins and the mesmerising White-Starred robin. The repetitive calling of the Narina Trogon was daunting, but how would we get a glimpse of this elusive bird? It was frustrating. The cathedral of mature forest trees invites you into this mystical world where large sections of the trail follow a wooden boardwalk to the beautiful, refreshing waterfall. Food for the soul as we spent most of the morning traversing this enchanting forest trail.

(The Touw River just before it takes the last bend and enters the sea at the Wilderness)

 

(Touw River bridge between North and South camp at the Ebb and Flow rest camp)

 

(the pontoon river crossing point)

 

(Canoe parking lot for the Half-Collard kingfisher walking trail; you proceed on foot from this point)

 

We are departing from the Ebb and Flow rest camp and relocating to Goukamma Nature Reserve, hosted by Cape Nature. It is close to Knysna, with mysterious forests, giant Outeniqua yellowwoods, forest birding, and, most importantly, far away from the crowds.

(Buffelsbay beach during the lockdown, after 5 pm the police would depart and everyone flocked to the beach)

 

(Vlei Lodge in Goukamma very private, excellent birding opportunities here)

 

(The view over the estuary from our accommodation at the Fish Eagle Lodge; we got to see Fish Eagles every day on our five night stay)

 

Goukamma Nature Reserve and Marine Protected Area must be among the most underrated destinations. Spending five glorious days exploring this small hamlet along the east coast, its diversity of landscapes and birding opportunities is exceptional. Mesmerised by the energy from the crashing waves and the river estuary’s gentle lapping on the shores, time slips away.

(Narina Trogon, seen in the Diepwalle Knysna Forest, what a remarkable bird)

 

(Scaly-Throated Honeyguide, this image was taken in Natures Valley)

 

(Female African Paradise Flycatcher at the Woodville Big Tree)

 

(The call of the Black-Headed Oriole can be heard in most of the forest sections in the Garden Route)

 

We booked a local bird guiding company, Plett Birding (Ian Pletzer), relying on his local knowledge to locate our main target bird, the Narina Trogon.

Sunrise and an early morning drive to Plettenbergbay to meet with Ian. What an adventure-filled morning we had! We had successes as we connected with the Narina Trogon and a host of other marvellous forest birds. Going deep into the forests and photographing these often shy and challenging birds was exciting.

Contact Ian Pletzer for assistance on your next birding adventure on the Garden Route.

(Queen of natures Valley dominates the Landscape, Juanita providing some scale to this majestic tree)

 

(We finally connected with this elegant Queen: Outeniqua Yellowwood)

One of our objectives during our Garden Route visit was to document the Queen of Nature’s Valley. It is situated on the N2, right before you reach the bottom of the mountain pass along the Groot River. Towering over the forest canopy is a majestic yellowwood, worthy of her title as queen. We introduced ourselves to this iconic tree, regarded as one of the finest specimens in Nature’s Valley.

(Diepwalle Camping Decks, what a wonderful experience camping deep in these mysterious forests)

 

(The King Edward 7th Champion Tree in the Diepwalle Knysna Forests, 40m high and well over 800 years)

 

(Daleen Matthee Champion Tree in the Goudveld forest Knysna, this is also the starting point for the famous Circles in the Forest Trail)

 

Our last destination would be the isolated camping decks in the Diepwalle Knysna Forest. There was no stopping us now; this was heaven; we were in our happy place, ready to drive back through the historical Knysna Forest. King Edward and Dalene Matthee Champion Outeniqua Yellowwoods, both well over 800 years old, have been given a mythical and permanent place in South Africa through the works and literature of writer Dalene Matthee. She found inspiration for her numerous novels in the heart of this forest. We felt privileged to walk down one of these dark and mystical retreats, named after her famous novels, Circles in the Forest (Kringe in Die Bos)

(Waking up to the early morning sounds of the forest was a dream come true; the 600 f4 was always ready for action)

 

(The boys are having some fun)

 

(Up before first light and connecting with this Champion at sunrise, not a person in sight for Hours, King Edward 7th Outeniqua Yellowwood)

 

Today, the woodcutters and gold diggers and most elephants are gone. However, traces of the past still linger within the lush Knysna forests. These dense green forests hold many myths and legends, and they have been preserved and protected by the forest for many years.

(On top of the world, Spitskop viewpoint, at 918m, is the highest accessible peak in the district)

 

(Sunrise in the Diepwalle Knysna Forest; this is the staff accommodation)

 

(Dal Van Varings, translated as the valley of the ferns, sad that we didn’t get to spend more time at this hidden treasure)

 

We followed this route, designed to take us on a magical journey of discovery on a path rooted in the memory of time.

(Having some fun at the King Edward 7th Champion Tree)

 

(Dal Van Varings, translated as the valley of the ferns, sad that we didn’t get to spend more time at this hidden treasure)

 

(Diepwalle Knysna Forest, this image, taken from Spitskop, provides some perspective on how remote we were deep in the Indigenous forest)

 

It was another unforgettable experience, sad to be heading home, but content with the knowledge that we will be back, inspired by the prospect of more adventures to follow.

(Dal Van Varings, translated as the valley of the ferns, sad that we didn’t get to spend more time at this hidden treasure)

 

(Sunset walk along the Wilderness Village Walking trail, beautiful boardwalk along the touw river towards the estuary mouth)(

 

(Rooted in Time, a guided route that takes you back in time through the historical Knysna Forest: 10 informative stops that provide history and images of how this working forest functioned)

 

(Woodville Big Tree, a circular walking trail, provides a perspective of the ways of the forest)

List of  Forest Birds we added to our Life list:

Narina Trogon

Grey Cuckoo Shrike

Black Cuckoo Shrike

Scaly-throated honeyguide

Black-Capped Puffback

White Starred Robin

Olive Bush-Shrike

Chorister Robin-Chat

Blue-Mantled Crested Flycatcher

Yellow-Throated Woodlands Warbeler

Grey Sunbird