Madagascar: Morondava to Andasibe, it was a hell ride getting down into the eastern rainforest section of Madagascar, Safety Concerns and Family Decisions to Adapt our Itinerary – Episode 4
Our adventure had taken a turn for the worse, and we had to abandon part of our route covering Madagascar’s southern section, the spiny forest, Ifaty, Adavadoka, and Tulier; oh, how sad we were. The unique Baobabs, Untold birds and magnificent coastal beaches are gone by virtue of one washed-away bridge. We could no longer go in search of the spiny forests and the rubrosputra baobabs, also known as teapot baobabs. These iconic giants will have to wait for us to visit them on another adventure.
We had to stitch together this 4-day hole in our itinerary for now. Step 1 was to head back to Ansirabe, located in the middle of Madagascar, and then go on to a new destination called the Mantasoa Forest. We had no idea what was waiting for us, but we were excited to explore this huge island; it was the reason we braved all the challenges just getting to this remarkable island.
“Into the Heart of Madagascar: Eastern Rainforests Unveiled”
Mantadia and Andasibe-Mantadia National Park in Madagascar are renowned for their rich biodiversity and unique wildlife, including lemurs. The park is famous for its lush rainforests, beautiful waterfalls, and the iconic Indri lemurs, the largest of their kind. Visitors can enjoy hiking and wildlife watching in this stunning natural habitat. It’s a must-visit destination for nature enthusiasts and those interested in Madagascar’s unique ecology.
The Eastern Rainforests of Madagascar: Exploring Mantadia and Andasibe
Madagascar, the world’s fourth largest island, is a biodiversity hotspot like no other. Its isolation from mainland Africa over millions of years has resulted in the evolution of unique and endemic species found nowhere else on Earth. Among its natural wonders, the Eastern Rainforests of Madagascar, notably Mantadia and Andasibe-Mantadia National Park, stand as jewels in the crown of Madagascar’s natural heritage.
Mantadia and Andasibe-Mantadia are located in the eastern part of Madagascar, just a few hours’ drive from Antananarivo’s capital city. The region is characterised by lush, tropical rainforests, high annual rainfall, and diverse microclimates. This area is part of the larger Atsinanana Rainforests, a UNESCO World Heritage site encompassing six national parks and reserves along Madagascar’s eastern coastline.
The tension was slowly building as we contemplated the tasks ahead; we had set such high goals on this holiday adventure. Having missed so many birds on the first leg of our travels, we had concerns about some of the notable endemics we had earmarked as a must-see. The singing Indri-Indri, the Helmet Vanga and the Cuckoo Roller. Not to mention that we still had hopes for the elusive and nocturnal Aye-Aye Lemur.
Aye-Aye lemur photo (Dale Morris )
This is a pinpoint of the three areas we visited during our two-week adventure. First, we travelled to the Western shores of Morondava; as per this article, we explored the Eastern Rain Forests, and our last stop would be IleSaint-Marie along the Eastern coast.
But we are getting ahead of ourselves as we must make the short trek from Mantasoa to Andasibe. Unfortunately, this is Madagascar, and we were warned that you need to get used to island time. What we believed would be a quick trip down into the rain forests proved to be a challenging truck dodging hell ride.
Due to the changes to our itinerary, we would have a blissful four days at the Vakona Forest Lodge, nestled in the Mantadia forest reserve, far away from the hustle and bustle of the small town of Andasibe. As a nature lover, bird watcher, and Lemur chaser, you would struggle to find something better; elevated yet surrounded by high, sloping hillside, this was heaven.
The following morning, we would visit a private reserve managed by the local community that has all been grouped together to protect their forest and the endemic species. This provided much-needed tourism jobs and a long-term solution to the ongoing problems of dwindling forests and the unique animals that attract people to the island.
As with most of these excursions, you rely on your guide to put you on the money and provide you with the protection and information to make your experience memorable. We were fortunate to have connected with Claudia Gilbert, who proved to be very knowledgeable and resourceful in finding exactly what we had asked of her.
Madagascar Boa seen at VIOMMA, Photo co Juanita Aitkenhead
It wasn’t too long after we entered this reserve that she pointed out the Red Tailed Vanga, and then it was a Madagascar Ibis on a nest with two Chicks, right next to a nesting Tetraka. We were on a roll, and it wasn’t long before we were running for our lives as we followed the indri-indi as they leapt from branch to branch with the dexterity that must be seen to believe. Wailing calls echoed from all forest corners as we patiently waited for our family group to call. This calling would notify the rest of the forest that this was their location and that please don’t come near.
What a piercing sound that must travel for miles, a warning call advising any other Indri-Indri family close by that this area was off limits. Finally, we listened in awe as the calling erupted, and the whole family pitched in, adding a crescendo of sound that took our breath away.
Getting a great image of the largest Madagascar lemur calling was different. Dense forest thickets and an uncooperative lemer family made for frustrating photography. Misting Lenses, dripping canopy foliage, a busy moving target and other eager tourists were just some hurdles to deal with.
Luckily, we knew we had a few days to marvel at the experience and would have another chance to capture this one-of-a-kind experience.
The following day, I would leave the family to rest and enjoy some late sleep and the luxury that the Vakona Forest Lodge could offer.
Armed with four guides, we would visit the Iroka forest to find the Helmet Vanga, a top 100 bird worldwide. This was my number one target bird for our Madagascar Endemic Exploration.
Trudging through the forest at a breakneck pace, hardly stopping for all the joys that abound in this mystical forest. There was no chance of this as our local guide was on a single-minded quest to race to the Helmet Vanga breeding site and naturally return to his family. This was the one and only time since arriving on the island that anyone was in a rush. Sadly, hardly any other endemic birds were located; however, we had the Helmet Vanga ticked off, and we were content with this incredible feat. When we booked, Local guides advised us that the breeding pair would have left the nest by the time we arrived. Lucky for us, she was on the nest and what a fantastic experience.
Enjoying the lush forests, lemurs bounding from the treetops, and forest birds in full song, we were in a magical forest oasis, and it doesn’t get any better than this. Having accomplished most of the targets we had set for the eastern Rainforests, our minds drifted to new adventures, gently swaying coconut palms, clear turquoise tropical island water and the feeling of sand between our toes.
Ile Sant Marie was our next destination, specifically the small remote Island of Ile Aux Nattes. We needed to learn about the travelling itinerary and what it takes to get to these Tropical Islands.
Follow us as we venture into the unknown and snorkel the coral reefs, ride a tuck-tuck and slow down to the pace of the islands.
VOI MMA (voimmandasibe@gmail.com)
Dimby National Parks & reserves, Eastern Madagascar
V.O.I.M.M.A:
The letter sequence is an abbreviation for Vondron’olona miaro mitia ala, in English, „Local people love the forest“.
Andasibe is located about 130 km from the capital, Antananarivo, and is one of the major attractions for travellers in Madagascar due to its national park, Andasibe-Mantadia. By car, you can reach the village in approximately four hours. V.O.I.M.M.A. is a recommendable small reserve within sight of Andasibe’s train station.
Information about the reserve:
Indri in V.O.I.M.M.A.
The name says it all: In 2012, villagers from Andasibe founded the reserve as an alternative to the government-led national park in the neighbourhood. The local people wanted to manage their land again and be a part of ecotourism in this area. Today 0,4 km² of primary rainforest belongs to the young reserve’s area, which serves recreational purposes and informs local people about conservation and ecotourism. Ten employees care for a small office, a souvenir shop, and the forest. Half of the generated money is used for several projects in Andasibe, e.g. building water taps or supporting a small local hospital. Thus, V.O.I.M.M.A. follows similar projects like Anja Community Reserve, which predicate on sustainable use of their threatened rainforests. Until now, there are only a few of these reserves in Madagascar, making each even more valuable.
The reserve is open daily from 6.30 in the morning until shortly before sunset, around 5.30 p.m. Entrance fees can be paid at the park entrance; it is 15.000 to 30.000 Ariary (5 to 10 €) per person depending on the length of your visit. All-round trips through the rainforest are easy to walk, and the few steep parts are mostly well affixed.
Malagasy tree boa in the reserve
Climate:
The climate in Andasibe is mostly comfortably warm during the daytime, but it can get quite cold at night. And it’s always wet, even during the “dry” season, so please bring your raincoat and waterproof boots.
Infrastructure:
Andasibe’s infrastructure is excellent. You can choose restaurants and hotels of your choice and budget. Almost all have warm water and electricity available all day long. Nowadays, some even offer free wifi. There is also a campground in the neighbouring Mitsinjo reserve.
Flora & Fauna:
Despite its small size, the reserve is an untouched paradise for endemic animals and plants, where you can spend a whole day and enjoy pure nature. Some group of Indris, the biggest lemur on Earth, can be watched here in its natural habitat, and its white-headed relatives, the diademed sifakas, jump between the treetops, too. Some other lemurs, such as woolly lemurs, can be seen, and you will indeed find your personal favourite among these unique animals.
Giraffe necked weevil
For reptiles and amphibian lovers, the reserve offers countless frogs along its crystal clear river (among them Boophis pyrrhus, Boophis viridis, and madagascariensis) and several amazing chameleons Chamäleons (Furcifer willsii, Calumma parsonii cristifer, Calumma nasutum, Calumma emelinae and brevicorne) in the forest. This is also a place to find the unique satanic leaf-tailed gecko (Uroplatus phantasticus). Bizarre insects like the famous giraffe-necked weevil are part of the forest, too.
Since it is not a national park, V.O.I.M.M.A. reserve is open for night walks by request. In the dark, the forest shows its spooky but not less fascinating side. You will be surprised how many animals can be found under the starry sky!
This small 28-ha portion of the forest is managed by villagers and local guides (VOI is a Malagasy acronym for Vondron’Olona Ifotony, meaning ‘community group’). Entry, including guiding, costs 30,000Ar for a 2-hour circuit, 40,000Ar for 3 hours or 20,000Ar for a night walk; visits by canoe are 25,000Ar per canoe per hour. Indri, bamboo lemurs, common brown lemurs, chameleons, snakes and frogs may be seen here. At night, furry-eared dwarf lemurs and Goodman’s mouse lemurs can be added to that list. A greater proportion of the ticket price goes to the guides than other parks, where more funds are used for conservation activities.
We visited this oasis; guides were buzzing around, and they were onto the Indi-Indri in no time. Having some local knowledge on the ground, it was only a short time before we saw Parsons Chameleon and a pair of Madagascar Scops owls. Diadem Sifaka was magnificent with a golden Hue, but undoubtedly, the star of the show was the Indri-Indri(Babakoto: father of the forest).
IAROKA FOREST: About 1Okm due south of the RN2 junction for Andasibe is this 3,300ha forest, managed by local community organisation VOI Firaisankina since 2008
It opened to tourists in 2015 and has been making waves amongst birders since the spectacular Helmet Vanga was discovered to be nesting here. For this species, you previously needed to go all the way to Masoala to see one. Other birds include Bernier’s and Pollen’s vangas, scar and rufous-headed ground-rollers, Madagascar brush-warbler, brown emuar common sunbird-asity and forest rock thrush. There are also 11 types of lemur. From RN2, the access road could be better, so getting there takes an hour by 4×4 and then a further hour on foot. In the forest, there is a moderate 4km trail, but to see the vangas, it is necessary to do a tougher 10km hike.
The new reserve hit the headlines for all the wrong reasons 2018 when Vol Firaisankina’s vice president was arrested for illegally hunting ten critically endangered indri and a diademed sifaka for bushmeat.
Biodiversity and Lemurs: The Stars of the Show
Mantadia and Andasibe-Mantadia are world-renowned for their incredible lemur diversity. Lemurs are endemic to Madagascar, and this region is home to some of the most iconic species, including the Indri (Indri indri), the largest living lemur. Known for their haunting calls echoing through the forest, these charismatic creatures symbolise Madagascar’s unique wildlife.
Other lemur species found here include the Diademed Sifaka (Propithecus diadema), Black-and-white Ruffed Lemur (Varecia variegata), and the Eastern Woolly Lemur (Avahi laniger), among others. Observing lemurs in their natural habitat is a once-in-a-lifetime experience for wildlife enthusiasts.
Madagascar Scops Owl Photo co Juanita Aitkenhead
Avian Diversity
The rainforests of Mantadia and Andasibe are a paradise for birdwatchers. The area boasts an impressive array of avian species, many endemic to Madagascar. Notable bird species include the Madagascar Paradise Flycatcher (Terpsiphone mutata), the Madagascar Blue Pigeon (Alectroenas madagascariensis), and the Helmet Vanga (Euryceros prevostii). Birdwatchers can spend hours spotting these colourful and unique birds.
Photo co Juanita Aitkenhead
Photo co Juanita Aitkenhead
Photo co Juanita Aitkenhead
Flora
The rainforests are not just a haven for fauna but also for a rich diversity of flora. Orchids, ferns, and mosses adorn the forest floor while towering hardwood trees and massive tree ferns create a lush canopy. Some of Madagascar’s most famous plants, like the Traveler’s Palm (Ravenala madagascariensis) and various species of palms and pandanus, thrive here.
Conservation Efforts
Conservation of this invaluable ecosystem is of paramount importance. Organisations like the Association Mitsinjo and the Madagascar National Parks work tirelessly to protect these forests and their inhabitants. Eco-tourism plays a vital role in generating funds for conservation efforts while promoting awareness about these fragile ecosystems’ importance.
Visiting Mantadia and Andasibe
Visitors to Mantadia and Andasibe-Mantadia can explore the rainforests through well-maintained trails, some leading to spectacular waterfalls like the Cascade Sacreé. Guided tours are recommended, as experienced local guides can help spot elusive wildlife and provide insights into the forest’s ecology and conservation.
Accommodations in the area range from comfortable lodges to eco-friendly ecolodges, offering a range of options for travellers. It’s advisable to book accommodations in advance, especially during the peak tourist season.
The Eastern Rainforests of Madagascar, with Mantadia and Andasibe-Mantadia at their heart, are a living testament to this island nation’s unique and irreplaceable biodiversity. It is a destination where the haunting calls of lemurs, the vibrant plumage of exotic birds, and the lush greenery of the rainforest combine to create an unforgettable natural experience. Preserving these forests is crucial for Madagascar and the world, as they hold the key to understanding and protecting the planet’s fragile ecosystems.
Andasibe ( Périnet): Analamazaotra Special Reserve, and Mantadia National Park
The Analamazaotra Special Reserve is one of the most frequently visited sites in the country, one of the easiest to reach, one of the best places to observe lemurs in Madagascar, and indeed one of the best primate-watching sites in the world. It is located right next to the village of Andasibe, also sometimes referred to as Périnet (actually the train station’s name). Andasibe is about 145 km east of Antananarivo on RN2 (one of Madagascar’s better roads and the highway to the eastern coastal port of Toamasina) and can be reached in 2½ to 4 hours by car, depending on traffic and stops along the way.
There are various hotels in Andasibe suitable for all budgets. A few are particularly worth mentioning: the upscale Vakona Hotel, the charming Feon’ny Ala Hotel (which has the advantage of being situated right next to the forest in which the principal Indri-Indri tourist groups live), and the Mikalo Hotel, an extension of the historic old train station hotel, the Hotel de la Gare, which used to be the only place to stay before the 1980s. Another hotel, Euphon, is located along the main highway right before the turnoff to Andasibe and is also an excellent place to stay. Analamazaotra consists of mid-altitude montane rain forest at 900–1,250 m, but covers a mere 810 ha. However, it is immediately adjacent to the much larger Mantadia National Park and several other vital forests, such as Maromizaha.
An overnight stay at this site is an absolute must for the first-time visitor to Madagascar since it is the best place in the country for seeing the indri (Indri indri). Two indri groups in the surrounding forest have been habituated to the presence of tourists and are easily found with the help of local guides. The Association des Guides d’Andasibe comprises approximately 30 people from the village of Andasibe. They are excellent naturalists and can show visitors a wide variety of wildlife in a very short period. Guides are easily located at the entrance to the park or can be contacted through one of the hotels. The new Association Mitsinjo also has directions and reserves in the Station Forestière d’Analamazaotra right across the street from the Analamazaotra Special Reserve. The Mitsinjo Reserve has the advantage of allowing night walks, which are sometimes prohibited in government-protected areas. However, night walks along the road between the main highway and Andasibe are permitted at any time and can be pretty productive. A third guide association, Tambatra, was created recently and can also provide services.
Almost a hundred guides from Andasibe are working in this area. In addition to the indri, the following lemurs are also relatively easy to observe at Analamazaotra: Goodman’s mouse lemur (Microcebus lehilahytsara), Crossley’s dwarf lemur (Cheirogaleus crossleyi), weasel sportive lemur (Lepilemur mustelinus), brown lemur (Eulemur fulvus), grey bamboo lemur (Hapalemur griseus griseus), and an eastern woolly lemur (Avahi laniger), as well as recently re-introduced diademed sifaka (Propithecus diadema) and sometimes southern black-and-white ruffed lemur (Varecia variegata editorum), also a recent re-introduction. The sifakas are now relatively easy to see in the same area as the two habituated indri groups, but the ruffed lemurs are more complicated. There is also a possibility of seeing the red-bellied lemur (Eulemur rubriventer) and the aye-aye (Daubentonia madagascariensis), although sightings of these species are much more infrequent. Finally, the rare hairy-eared dwarf lemur (Allocebus trichotis) is known to occur in the reserve but is challenging to find. If this species interests you, ask for a guide who knows where to look for it. First-time visitors to Madagascar should spend at least two nights in Andasibe. They should also go to the nearby Mantadia National Park, where it is now easy to see the diademed sifaka (Propithecus diadema) and possibly southern black-and-white ruffed lemur (Varecia variegata editorum). Both species occur in Mantadia and are regularly seen at km 15. In other words, with some luck and perseverance, one can see 8 to 11 different lemurs at this one site—an excellent start to any lemur-watching tour of Madagascar. Note that the smaller nocturnal species are much more difficult to find in the colder austral winter (June–August), so if seeing these is a priority, it is better to visit during the warmer months (November–February). Nocturnal walks are conducted only along the road to Andasibe or in Station Forestière d’ Analamazaotra, administered by Association Mitsinjo. However, we hope Madagascar National Parks will reopen its parks and reserves to nocturnal visits shortly. In Mantadia, most excursions into the forest start at km 15, where there are several good trails. Birdwatching is also exceptionally good at Mantadia, especially in September and October when the ground rollers (Brachypteracias) are visible, and butterfly and orchid enthusiasts can expect to find a great diversity of species. However, most facilities in Andasibe are heavily booked during these two months, so it is essential to reserve early.
Photo co Juanita Aitkenhead
About Vakona Forest Lodge
Lying 150 kilometres from Antananarivo, Vakona Forest Lodge is a comfortable ecolodge on a hillside above a lake surrounded by palms and brilliant bougainvillaea. Twenty-eight bungalows are scattered between the trees. Just one kilometre away is Andasibe National Park, its rainforest alive with lemurs, indri (the largest lemur species), birds, insects and other subtropical creatures. If you’re looking for a high style, something different than Vakona may fit your idea of a subtropical holiday. Still, if you’re serious about flora and fauna, you’ll be more than happy with the accommodation, the meals and the chance to see many lemurs.
What you’ll love
Vakona is just 1 kilometre from Andasibe National Park, where cartoonish lemurs (including the largest species) live in abundance.
Insiders tip
Go exploring along the lodge’s private trails and visit Indri Island. It may be a little touristy, but the lemur encounters are fantastic.
Something to think about
Vakona’s rainforest setting means EVERYTHING feels damp, but the lodge provides dehumidifiers and heaters to keep your towels dry.
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