Rainbows over the Avenue of the Baobabs

Rainbows over the Avenue of the Baobabs 

( All Images Copyright, Alex Aitkenhead)

Referred to as the eighth continent, Madagascar’s windswept land, rich in iron oxides, has earned its name as the Bleeding or Red Island. This is because local slash-and-burn farming practices have destroyed almost 90% of the original indigenous forest. In addition, the rainy season erodes the baron land, and the rivers wash the red soil into the sea. The soil erosion is so severe that this phenomenon can be observed from space (Betsiboka River Delta, on the North West Coast)

 

 

 

 

Madagascar’s endemic fauna and flora have made this island a world-famous and popular destination. This cyclone-battered land has shaped a territory of extraordinary beauty and diversity. The standard theory to explain what made this island such a unique haven for its endemism was that Gondwana was the key. Gondwana, the southern supercontinent, which, so scientists believe, once embraced in single land mass what we now know as South America, Africa, India, Antarctica and Australasia. It was here in the centre of Gondwana, in what is now Madagascar, that these endemic species evolved.

 

 

 

 

Then, according to the theory of continental drift, the supercontinent broke up at least 50 million years ago, and new continents and subcontinents were formed. Madagascar, having been isolated for so many millions of years, resulted in a rich and diverse wildlife and plants found nowhere else in the world.

Madagascar is classified as a microcontinent, a biodiversity hotspot, with over 90% of its wildlife only found here. Monkey-like lemurs sing songs of expressional beauty, and immense Baobab trees crowd the horizon. A garden of Eden and a Noah’s ark for endemic species.  

Creatures you may never have heard of here, like Fusa and Tenrecs, vangas, and Aye Aye, thrive in a real lost world along with diverse and unique flora like the octopus tree and its six endemic Baobabs. This is a result of its isolation from other land masses for millions of years.

The Indri-Indri (Babakoto), the singing Lemur, Parsons Chameleons growing to more than 600mm in length, and the Helmet Vanga, a top 100 bird of the world, are just some of the unique treasures that is Madagascar.

Famous of all is the Majestic Baobabs of Madagascar; six species of Adansonia can be found on this fourth-largest island in the world. To the northwest, you will find three (A. madagascariensis, A. suarezansis and A. perrieri) and three in the southwest ( A. grandidieri, A. rubrostipa and A. za)

 

 

 

 

Two other species exist in the rest of the world, one in Africa (Adansonia digitata) and the other some 10 000 miles away in Australia (Adansonia gibbosa).

Living in South Africa, we would visit the Kruger National Park, where our love affair with trees began. Seeing an African Baobab in the Bushveld will make most fall in love with these magnificent physiques.

But the author and photographer Thomas Pakenham and his work on “Remarkable Trees of the World” provoked our desire to embrace some of the most majestic trees in the world. The Avenue of the Baobabs in Morondava (Madagascar) captivated our attention, and besides, it would be the perfect endemic Island getaway. 

 

 

 

 

We embarked on this wild adventure to witness this splendour, dodging some of the worst potholed roads. Arriving at the Avenue, the sun’s rays washed over these colossal columns as they dominated the landscape. 

This is Adansonia grandidieri, a perfect name for the grandest and most famous of all the baobabs. (It took its name from two great French naturalists, Michel Adanson and Alfred Grandidier.)

The species is unfortunately rare and endangered, so make a point of visiting this unique location before it’s gone forever. Currently, the species is listed as in danger of extinction (EN) on the red list of the UICN, so let’s protect it!

We were waiting for the magical golden hour to capture the Avenue at Sunset, these gigantic monoliths towering out of the hard sun-baked sand of Morondava. How disappointed we were when an uninvited bank of clouds masked the sunlight, and the moment was lost. 

Revisiting at sunrise the following morning on our way to the Kirindy Forest Reserve, we were mesmerized by the beauty and power of these ancient beings that tower over the surrounding forest. Blessed by a passing rainbow that arched over the Baobab Avenue, another reflection of its imposing presence. 

 

 

 

 

Enthralled by the occasion, we trudged further along the road that leads to the town of Belo. Here we uncover more remarkable and Majestic beasts. This time the Adansonia Za, similar to its cousin the Grandidieri, but with a more bushy head and not a crown. We paid homage and presented gifts and blessings to the largest of them, the forest’s king. Stunned by its grandeur and colossal construction as it towered overhead. Departing with the knowledge that we had witnessed something compelling and remarkable… silent for a while, absorbing the moment shared amongst the local people living a simple and primitive life “alongside the river” at Morondava.

 

 

 

 

Ten interesting facts about the Avenue of the Baobabs

1. The Avenue of Baobabs is a national monument

The location of the Avenue of the Baobabs is a natural monument. It is under conservation by private environmental organizations in collaboration with the government.

The Malagasy government named this national monument in 2015. This move was after deforestation, paddy fields, and forest fires endangered the trees.

As a popular tourist location in western Madagascar, the area is remote and is not fenced.

There is also no visitor’s centre or an entrance fee, therefore very little is made through tourism from this landmark.

The local community around this monument sells miniature baobab souvenirs and other handicrafts to tourists.

 

 

2. The Avenue of Baobabs is locally known as the mother of forests

The baobab trees are locally known as renala, meaning the mother of the forest. The trees have grown in Madagascar for more than 2,800 years.

These trees form part of the once-dense tropical forests that covered most of Madagascar.

As the population grew, there was a need for more land leading to the clearing of the forests. People used the land for agriculture and used wood to build homes and furniture.

About 9,200 acres of forest land are estimated to disappear annually through illegal logging and intentional forest fires.

Several people living close to the Avenue of the Baobabs cleared the forest land to farm.

 

 

3. The road along the Avenue of Baobabs is busy

Since the location of this national monument is open, you will meet with several locals going about their daily activities along the way.

Baobab Alley is a tourist attraction and one of the locals’ main roads daily.

There are few tourists on this road during the day and early morning. The locals here use zebu carts to carry goods since it is a dirt road. However, they are friendly to visitors. 

 

 

4. The Avenue of the Baobabs is not as long as one may think

The Avenue of the Baobabs is only about 260m long. There are also about 25 trees standing about 30 tall. This is one of many places to admire these tall gigantic trees. There is another location close by with different baobab species.

 

 

5. The Avenue of Baobabs is made up of different species

About 4 miles from the Avenue of the Baobabs is another group of mammoth baobabs worth your time.

These species are known as the Baobab Amoureux. These trees as also known as the baobabs of love because they are intertwined like two lovers.

It is one of the most common species of baobab trees found in Madagascar.

Local legend says that it signifies deep love between a man and a woman from a nearby village. However, they could only marry if they arranged marriages from different villages. 

The couple prayed for a lifetime together, and the two baobabs became a forever show of their eternal love.

 

 

6. Sunset at the Avenue of Baobabs is epic

One popular activity at the Avenue of the Baobabs is photography. Locals and tourists love it here because of the epic shots they get at sunrise and sunset.

Early morning photography is a mix of foggy rays and apparent horizons. There are usually few people here early morning compared to the evening.

The long shadows of the trunks and changing sky colours at twilight are nothing short of magical.

Sunrise photography will require one to arrive early since the place can only be accessed by car.

 

 

7. The Baobab trees have multiple benefits

Some of the baobabs found here are more than 800 years old. But unfortunately, most of them have been greatly affected by climate change and are few.

Baobab trees have been used for several purposes by the locals in Madagascar and continental Africa.

There is baobab powder that is considered to be medicinal and rich in calcium, hence suitable for the bones.

The baobab seeds are also eaten as snacks; they are savoury and require one to suck on them, and too much of it will leave you with a sore mouth.

Another use for fruits is to make a popular summer drink. Try them on your next visit. 

 

 

8. The only way to access the Avenue of the Baobabs is by hiring a taxi

The Avenue of the Baobabs is located in a remote area. Therefore, the only way to access it is by hiring a taxi since no public buses ply that route.

Another reason there are few cars on this road is because it is bumpy and requires experienced drivers.

 

 

9. The Baobabs on this Avenue are unique to Madagascar

The baobab species found in the Avenue of the Baobabs are known as the Adansonia Grandidier baobabs. These are one of the eight species found around the world.

Six out of the eight species are prevalent in Madagascar. These trees have red tones that match the dusty road.

The colours are even more vibrant during sunset. This is because they are so beautiful they leave a lasting impression. 

 

 

10. There is a local legend about how the trees were formed

When Arab seafarers first arrived in Madagascar, they were amazed by the shape and size of the baobab trees.

The Arabs believed that the devil was responsible for the bizarre look of the trees. They believed the devil ripped the trees and then planted them upside down.

These trees are about 150 feet tall, and their canopies resemble roots.