As the sun began to peek over the horizon, casting its golden glow upon the vast expanse of the Southern Ocean, anticipation crackled in the air like electricity. Dr. Dominique Paul Rollinson stood at the bow of the MSC Orchestra, his voice booming over the loudspeaker, announcing the presence of a “penguin on the water”.

We were on the brink of something extraordinary, sailing some 20 kilometres off the coast of Prince Edward and Marion Island, known as the holy grail of Pelagic Birding. Excitement coursed through us as we embarked on this daring adventure, ready to witness nature’s spectacle in one of the world’s most treacherous seas.

But as the day unfolded, the tranquillity shattered. The calm waters gave way to a raging tempest, the wind howling like a banshee and the swell growing ferociously. Once a symbol of luxury and leisure, the MSC Orchestra was tossed and turned by the merciless ocean.

We strained our eyes, searching desperately for the elusive penguins, only to catch fleeting glimpses as they dove beneath the waves, fleeing from our mammoth vessel. It was a scene of awe and frustration, knowing that we were so close yet far from experiencing these creatures’ majesty in their natural habitat.

Yet, our journey was not merely one of leisure. It was a mission fueled by purpose, driven by the vision of Birdlife South Africa and the Mouse Free Marion Project. These remote islands, annexed by South Africa decades ago, were now battlegrounds in the fight against invasive species, with the humble house mouse wreaking havoc on the delicate ecosystem.

Enjoy with us the extreme conditions we experienced when we arrived at Marion Island and witness how difficult it was to see these Penguins in the water.

King Penguins on Marion Island, image Otto Whitehead

King Penguins on Marion Island, image Otto WhiteheaDr Anton Wolfaardt, who heads up the Mouse Free Marion Project, King Penguins on Marion Island, image Otto Whitehead

Marion Island, rugged coastline and home to large numbers of Sea Birds and Mammals: image Otto Whitehead

As we braved the wrath of the Southern Ocean, we carried with us the hopes and dreams of conservationists worldwide. Every wave that crashed against the hull reminded us of the challenges ahead, the obstacles we must overcome to protect these precious islands and the creatures that call them home.

Captain Pinto’s announcement cut through the chaos, a grim reminder of our fleeting time in this untamed wilderness. With a storm on the horizon, our window of opportunity was closing fast, forcing us to abandon our quest and retreat to safer waters.
But just as despair threatened to consume us, a ray of hope pierced through the gloom. Another cry of  “Penguin on the water!” echoed across the deck, and this time, we were ready. With hearts pounding and cameras at the ready, we bore witness to the splendour of the King Penguin, a symbol of resilience in the face of adversity.

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We stood united in our mission as the storm clouds gathered overhead and the ocean roared its disapproval. Every donation, every sponsorship, and every hectare of land purchased brought us one step closer to securing the future of Marion Island and its inhabitants. The Mouse Free Marion project would run various programs to collect funding for this ambitious but vital project, and this adventure was just one project. Donations, sponsorship and purchasing one Hector plot for R1000 were part of this financial drive, amongst others.

And so, as we turned our backs on the tumultuous sea and set course for calmer waters, we carried with us the memories of our journey, the challenges we had faced, and the hope that one day, the roar of the Southern Ocean would be silenced by the triumph of conservation.

As we ventured deeper into the Southern Ocean, a sense of foreboding gripped us. We were more than 2000 kilometres from the safety of Cape Town, surrounded by the wrath of nature’s fury. These were not just rough waters; they were the stuff of nightmares, where the winds howled like vengeful spirits and the waves rose like towering behemoths, ready to swallow us whole.
Known ominously as the Roaring Forties, the Furious Fifties, and the Screaming Sixties, these were seas where even the most seasoned sailors trembled in fear. And here we were, aboard the MSC Orchestra, sailing into the heart of the storm, where no other cruise ship had dared to tread.

But amidst the chaos, there was a beauty that defied description. The Southern Ocean was a realm ruled by giants, and none were more majestic than the wandering albatross. With wings that spanned the horizon and eyes that gleamed with ancient wisdom, they soared above the tumultuous waters, unfazed by the turmoil below.

Yet, even these noble creatures were not immune to the perils of their domain. As we watched in awe, a fierce battle unfolded before us, as albatrosses fought against the elements with all the grace and strength they could muster. It was a reminder of the fragile balance between life and death in this unforgiving wilderness.

Albatross are the Monarchs of the Sea bird world, and the Southern Ocean is their world. Majestic in flight, the Aristocrat of wind and wave eloquently endowed to display at courting.

Wandering Albatross

But amidst the chaos, there was purpose. We were here to support the Mouse Free Marion Project, to fight for the future of these remote islands and the creatures that called them home. With every click of the camera shutter and every donation made, we were writing a new chapter in the story of conservation, a story of hope in the face of despair.
And so, as we braved the tempest and faced the unknown, we did so with hearts full of determination and resolve. For in the Southern Ocean, where the winds howled and the waves roared, there was a glimmer of hope on the horizon, promising a brighter future for Marion Island and all who dwelled within its shores.

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King Penguin and Southern Rockhopper Penguin

Penguins Seen on the Flock to Marion 2022

African Penguin

Macaroni Penguin

Southern Rockhopper Penguin

King Penguin

Gentoo Penguin (To be confirmed)

Information and images of Penguins co A Field Guide to the Wildlife of South Georgia

Equipment Used: Canon R5 with the Canon 100-500 Lens

Supporting the Mouse Free Marion Project.