Read about our Flock to Marion 2022 expedition. A once-in-a-lifetime venture into the Southern Ocean was the announcement. It would be Birdlife South Africa’s next Flock at sea, and Marion Island was our destination. Having read about the success of the previous Flocks and all the positive comments and excitement, it was an easy decision to get on board. Now, all I needed to do was convince my wife to join me in what was dubbed the event of the year amongst the birding fraternity.

This powerful image tells the story of our memorable journey into the Roaring Forties of the Southern Ocean. Image: Juanita Aitkenhead Flock to Marion 2022

We were on duty and on-call for many of the special sea birds that we witnessed. Image: Juanita Aitkenhead Flock to Marion 2022

Wandering Albatross, the largest flying bird in the world, “Majestic in flight, Aristocrat of Wind and Wave” Flock to Marion 2022
Wandering Albatross is the largest flying bird in the world, “Wonderful to look at, Majestic in flight, Aloof as the Aristocrat of Wind and Wave, and elegantly endowed to go at courting.”
A group of enthusiastic birders from South Africa and abroad ventured into the Southern Ocean on a cruise liner in search of these vulnerable seabirds. Read about our experience and enjoy these memorable moments as we learn about the plight of most seabirds in their struggle for survival.

Situated some 2130km southeast of Cape Town, we ventured into the roaring forties to Prince Edward and Marion Island.
Bon Voyage!
As the MSC Orchestra sailed out of Cape Town Harbour, we needed to pinch ourselves to ensure this wasn’t a dream. After three years of careful planning and many hurdles, Birdlife South Africa’s Flock to Marion was underway. We were heading into the roughest, stormiest ocean in the world. We were going where no cruise liner had dared venture, the Southern Ocean, specifically Prince Edward and Marion Island.

The MSC Orchestra arrives in Cape Town Harbour ahead of the Flock to Marion 2022 Drone Image: Juanita Aitkenhead.

We needed to exit the Cape Town Harbour before the South Easter prevented our departure; you can see the wind clouds forming over Table Mountain as the forecasted gale force winds started blowing, MSC Orchestra, Flock to Marion 2022

A Cabin with a View: This was BLISS, and we needed to savour the moment before our departure. Image: Juanita Aitkenhead
Prince Edward Islands
The Prince Edward Islands are situated in the Roaring Forties, approximately 2130 kilometres southeast of Cape Town. Consisting of two islands, Marion is larger(25km long and 16km wide, and around 290 square kilometres). High cliffs dominate the 72km coastline, with a few sheltered bays on the eastern side.
Prince Edward Island is only 45 square kilometres, and no permanent scientists are based on it to maintain its natural state.

My Bird of the Flock, Light-mantled Albatross (Phoebetria palpebrata) elegance personified; notice the blue stripe on the lower mandible as against the Sooty Albatross that has the yellow stripe on the lower mandible, Sooty Albatross.

Finally, we got to see King Penguins in their natural habitat; how different it was to our encounter with the King Penguin that visited us at Cape Point, Flock to Marion 2022

Fairy Prion, one of five Prion Species we managed to Photograph on the trip, is very contentious when it comes to identifying the various species, as everybody has an opinion on what it is or isn’t, Flock to Marion 2022
These Islands are safeguarded by the Prince Edward Island Marine Protected Area to preserve and care for the Fauna and Flora on and around the Islands. It is an important breeding area for 29 bird species: five albatross, 14 Petrel, and four Penguin species, amongst others.
“The Flock to Marion 2022” was part of the awareness campaign for the Mouse-Free Marion Project and forms part of an ongoing conservation project to eradicate Marion Island of the common house mouse (Mus musculus).
Mice were introduced to the South African sub-Antarctic Marion Island by sealers in the early 19th century. Over the last two centuries, they have significantly reduced the abundance of Seabirds. Since 2015, it has been estimated that more than 5% of the summer-breading albatross fledglings are killed yearly. This would naturally include mortality rates amongst the other breeding seabirds on the Island.
These mouse-eradication projects are a worldwide problem on many isolated islands worldwide.

With 9000 Birds listed, this man was a legend (Jonathan Rossouw). He had stories that go on forever and a wealth of knowledge on almost everything we witnessed; it was a privilege to stand at his guiding station and soak up all the information. Thanks, Jonathan Rossouw, for making this trip so memorable Image: Juanita Aitkenhead, Flock to Marion 2022

Grey Headed Albatross seen at Marion Island, we didn’t photograph as many of this species compared to other Albatrosses at Marion, Flock to Marion 2022

As down-to-earth as you get, barefoot or in slops, whatever you do, don’t show him one of your blurry images and ask, “Hey Peter, what type of Prion is this?” Trust me, you will not go back for more…….. Image: Juanita Aitkenhead, Flock to Marion 2022
The Aim Of The Project
The Mouse-free Marion project, scheduled to commence in 2024, aims to bait the island using helicopters. It is based on all the lessons learned from a similar restoration program completed on Gough Island in the winter of 2012.
Excited to be part of the conservation efforts on Marion Island, we began in earnest with the planning and preparation for this epic voyage to the Southern Ocean.

Northern Giant Petrel (Reddish Bill Tip) As against the Greenish Bill Tip of the Southern Giant Petrel, these Petrels rule the roost when deciding who feeds first. Flock to Marion 2022
- Sea Birds and Cetaceans
- Warm Dry Clothing
- Camera Gear
- Birding Guides and Ship Layout
- Proximity to the Prince Edward Islands and Marion
- Sponsors
Thankfully, The organisers understood these requirements and started on a massive educational drive. Webinars covering the various bird groups assisted us in understanding the expected Sea-Bird species and how to identify them. In addition, we learned about the multiple Cetaceans we would expect to encounter:

Sooty Albatross(Phoebetria fusca): This Sooty Albatross has a yellow stripe on the lower mandible, while the Light-Mantled Albatross has a blue stripe. Flock to Marion 2022
Identification
Bird Guides would be stationed around the vessel at dedicated locations to help identify the birds spotted, and reports would be radioed to all stations. Major sightings were announced over the ship’s intercom system.
Necessary Permits
High on the priority list was the permit for ships to enter the Marine Protected Area around the Prince Edward Islands and Marion. Unfortunately, it was declined, and we were restricted to a 20 km zone from the Islands, thereby removing any prospect of listing any of the Shore Birds. The Main Purpose of this voyage was to expose the wealth of sea birds and Cetaceans in the Southern Ocean to more than 1,500 eager Flockers.

This was the main reason for our #FLOCKTOMARION2022, to create awareness of the plight of our sea birds on Marion, who are being eaten alive by the house mice accidentally introduced onto the island by the early Sealers.

Heading home and warm, still and calm waters on our way to Durban, not often as I seen without my binoculars or Canon R5, the birding in these tropical waters was taxing, especially after the flurry of activity on Albatross Thursday, Flock to Marion (Juanita and Alex Aitkenhead)

Shy Albatross, always distant, and it was difficult to capture a decent image at such long range, another of the Mollymawks. Flock to Marion 2022
The snowy albatross was first described as Diomedea exulans by Carl Linnaeus in 1758, based on a specimen from the Cape of Good Hope. Diomedea refers to Diomedes from Greek mythology whose companions turned to birds, and exulans or exsul are Latin for “exile” or “wanderer” referring to its extensive flights.
Communicating The Main Threat That Seabirds Face
It was the perfect setting to highlight the plight of our seabirds on the Prince Edward Islands, threatened by the House Mouse (Mus musculus). Anton Wolfaardt presented ongoing research and a comprehensive feasibility study on the eradication process through a series of lectures on various conservation programs on Marion Island. Mouse Free Marion would create awareness and solicit funding to proceed with the project of baiting the entire Island over a calculated period of two weeks to eradicate these mice and save our seabirds.
Our Experiences Onboard The MSC Orchestra

What more can one say, watching these birds as they passed the vessel Straight into the 60 knots of wind and the ship travelling at 20 Knots, using its Dynamic Souring? This Wanderer would be seen about 800m behind the Vessel, and within a short period, it would quickly catch up and fly past the vessel without one flap of its 3,6m wings, remarkable and astonishing to witness. Flock to Marion 2022 (Wandering Albatross)

Devil Ray, yet another Rare sighting on this Voyage (seen on our return leg to Durban) Image: Tristan Spurway
Image: Tristan Spurway

The Blue Petrel breeds on Marion Island, and despite it being a sought-after bird for the trip, it was seen and photographed by a handful of Flockers. Image : Mike Buckham
As we steamed out of Cape Town aboard the MSC Orchestra, the water became cooler, and we entered the deeper Plankton-rich waters of the Southern Ocean. We were excited as we started encountering more pelagic birds with an increase in the variety of species. Observing our first Wandering albatross with its astonishing dynamic soaring, enabling the largest flying bird in the world with a wingspan of 3,6M to travel hundreds of kilometres without a single flap of its wings.
Exploring the ship inside was extremely entertaining, especially when every passage, lift foyer, and stairway looked the same. Like most first-timers, getting lost inside the ship was a common pastime for at least the first three days. Unlike most cruisers, we also enjoyed exploring the outer rim of the ship’s passages and very rarely even saw the beautiful pool deck.
We came prepared, as we spent many hours training hard before the cruise to be fit and strong for the fun awaiting us. Taking the stairs rather than using the lifts also helped, especially when you offer three fabulous meals daily and a buffet open 24/7.
Upon Arrival
After three days of dedicated bird watching, we finally arrived at Prince Edward and Marion Island. “Albatross Thursday” and what a spectacle. Thousands of birds and penguins held us in awe as we braved the ferocious wind from the approaching storm.

The calm before the Storm, Prince Edward Island bottom left, Marion Island was hidden behind the clouds on the right; all we got to see of Marion Island was some high clifftops to the very right of the Island, then the pending storm started to make a showing, very strong winds, high seas and very cold conditions beautiful rocky outcrops along Marion Island, that we, unfortunately, could not get to see. Flock to Marion 2022

Impressive landscape with a King Penguin colony on Marion Island Image : Otto Smit
Unfortunately, the weather was not on our side, and we were met by a dense cloud shrouding Marion Island. Low clouds and mist covered Prince Edward Island; luckily, this Island was visible.
With the storm just off Marion, the wind intensified, and 100 km winds and heavy seas buffeted us. Captain Pinto of the MSC Orchestra cancelled our plan to sail past the two islands and a further 100km south. They were expecting 10m swells and severe winds. Unfortunately, we had to turn back and head for home ahead of the impending storm.
For many, this was a massive disappointment as we never got to see Marion Island, nor did we get to spend time in the proximity of the Island enjoying the prolific birdlife.
“Albatross Thursday”
will remain etched in our minds forever.
“Albatross Thursday”
will remain etched in our minds forever.

The critically endangered Tristan Albatross breeds mainly on Gough Island in the Tristan da Cunha archipelago. Flock to Marion 2022

The Tristan Albatross is different from the Wandering Albatross, with a smaller bill, pure white back, piano key tail, and white markings on the wings, with no distinct white leading edge on the wings. The Tristan Albatross is different from the Wandering Albatross, with a smaller bill, pure white back, piano key tail and white markings on the wings with no distinct white leading edge too the wings, Flock to Marion 2022
Heading Back – An Unexpected Rare Find (Tristan Albatross)
With Marion’s excitement fading as we travelled northward towards Durban, who could have predicted the sighting of a critically endangered Tristan Albatross? We had the good fortune to be part of a small group of flockers at the vessel’s stern when the Tristan Albatross made a dramatic and spectacular appearance.
We didn’t know it was a Tristan Albatross then, but Adam Riley, who guided this Flock, made the call. It wasn’t long before this rare sighting was announced over the ship’s intercom.

Celebrating this remarkable moment with Jonathan Rossouw and Peter Harrison after we captured a few images of the critically endangered Tristan Albatross Image: Juanita Aitkenhead, Flock to Marion 2022
Video by: Juanita Aitkenhead

Another stunning sunset in the Southern Ocean, looking and longing to go back. Flock to Marion 2022

Blue whale, the largest living mammal in the world, is such a pity we missed this behemoth. Image: Gregg Scott-Brown
With hardly any standing room after the announcement, we celebrated this majestic bird. We were blessed to have MBE Peter Harrison(the world’s leading Sea-Bird Artist and author of the latest “Sea Bird Identification” book) at the vessel’s stern. He showed us his reference images and described the differences between the “Grubby Wandering Albatross” and the “Clean Pure White ” Tristan Albatross.
We shared this memorable moment and celebrated our joy of this incredible find. Commemorating this moment with Peter and Johnathan Rossouw from Apex Expeditions, I have to rank this experience as the highlight of my birding career and a climax of the Flock to Marion Expedition.
Nothing could match the vibrance and excitement of the Southern Ocean, and as we headed into the warmer Indian Ocean waters, the birdlife all but vanished. It wasn’t easy to adjust to this slower pace of activity; however, we did see some incredible marine life on the return leg. Whales, dolphins, Flying Squid, and the odd Tropical Shearwater entertained us as we finally arrived in Durban.

Dr Anton Wolfaardt, who heads up the Mouse Free Marion Project

Enjoying the last rays of the beautiful sunset from the bow of the MSC Orchestra, Flock to Marion 2022

Flock to Marion 2022 Group Photo
A Worthy Cause
Birdlife South Africa can be proud of its achievements – it was a professional package and a successful awareness campaign for the Mouse Free Marion Project. In addition, they managed to raise more than R3 million for the MFM Project. We wish them all the best of success when they start the eradication process on Marion in 2024.
As we all said goodbye and travelled homeward bound, we knew we had witnessed something special on this epic voyage. We eagerly await the next Flock, which will take us to the Mozambique Channel in 2023, searching for Tropical Birds and Boobies. Frankly, we can’t wait and have already started counting the days.

We want to thank all the guides who helped us identify and list these remarkable seabirds.

Southern Giant Petrel with a Greenish Bill Tip (Reddish Bill Tip for the Northern Giant Petrel) These Petrels rule the roost when deciding who feeds first. Flock to Marion 2022

Sunrise on the deck of the MSC Orchestra, such an impressive vessel MSC Orchestra on the Flock to Marion 2022
Our Sponsors
We want to thank our sponsors and some individuals who made this voyage so special.
- MBE Peter Harrison: Seabirds (The New Identification Guide) Apex Expeditions
- Jonathan Rossouw: Apex Expeditions
- Mouse Free Marion Project: Dr Anton Wolfaardt
- Mike Ormerod: Orms\Canon
- Brian Murphy: Cape Union Mart
- Leica Sport Optics
- Lynx Edicions
- Faansie Peacock Birding App Firefinch
- Heather Wagner (Little Carthage River Lodge)

Soft Plumage Petrel: We had one of these birds fly into the vessel and die. It was a pity that the Birdlife SA team decided to discard the bird; we would have loved to have seen this in person and felt what they meant by “Soft Plumage.” Also, a closer inspection would have helped us appreciate the size and makeup of this Petrel species. Flock to Marion 2022
As we approached Marion Island, a notice went out to the crew and the voyagers asking them to keep their lights off. The night before this happened, the crew cleaned the decks with their lights on. It was a regrettable situation, but everyone preferred to keep it under wraps. We made mention of this possibility before the voyage on our Facebook Group called Friends of Flock to Marion.

Flying Squid, we watched this from our balcony and thought it was flying fish; like a huge white cloud, they all took flight. This was a first for many. Image: Tristan Spurway

A pair of Wandering Albatross, majestic in flight and a sight to behold Flock to Marion 2022
Bird Guides on the Flock to Marion 2022 (In no order of preference)
- Prof. Peter Ryan (Such a dry sense of humour, very dry. Seen on the decks every day, bare feet or in his slops). You can get his book Seabirds of Southern Africa here.
- Trevor Hardaker (Disappointed that we missed his onboard lecture on Sea-Bird Photography) (Sasol Birding Map of Southern Africa & Zest For Birds Pelagic Trips)
- Faansie Peacock (We all used Faansie’s new Birding App FireFinch on the #Flock it was and still is so convenient) (The Birds of Southern Africa: The Complete Photographic Guide: with app and calls: with app and calls)
- Vincent Ward (A wealth of information and always on the lookout for something new). Join Vincent at Cape Town Pelagics.
- Daniel Danckwerts ( Keen eyes and always onto Something and a great loud voice to get the message across) Rockjumpers
- Cliff Dorse (Very vigilant and always calling the birds, such a standout Guide) Zest For Birds
- Dominique Paul Rollinson (Ian Sinclair was right when he said “Make sure you standing near Dom” Birding Encounters
- Gary Allport (Found the Long Tailed Jager for us )
- Prof. Ken Findlay (We were always updated on all the Cetaceans)
- Dalton Gibbs
- Mayur Prag
- Michael Mills
- Vanessa Stephen
- Dylan Vasapolli (The Italian, birding right to the end, he was calling House Crows in the Durban Harbour) Birding Encounters
- Niall Perrins ( Did not Join due to COVID 19) (Sasol Birds of Southern Africa)
- Jordan Ralph
- John Kinghorn
- Toni Geddes
- Vernon Head
- Justin Nicolau ( Did not Join due to COVID 19)
- Adam Riley ( Put the whole vessel on RED ALERT with his call on the Tristan Albatross)
- Kieth Valentine
- David Hoddinott
- Heinz Ortman
- Greg de Klerk
- Andre Bernon
- Julian Parsons
- Riaan Botha
- Tim Carr ( great work ethic and very keen eyes on the water)
- Ian Pletzer ( nice to see this Plettenberg local again, worked in tandem with Tim Carr)
- Garret Skead ( always a pleasure to stand next to this top cape town Birder)
- Rob Leslie
- Tristan Spurway (Thanks for Sharing your images of the Flying Squid and Devil Ray)
- Bruce Dyer (Has been down to the Southern Ocean sooooo many times and he has many stories to share, he is always great company)

Dreaming of Southern Ocean Sunsets with World-class food, View from the stern on the MSC Orchestra Image: Juanita Aitkenhead, Flock to Marion 2022

Bown (Subantarctic) Skua is a scavenger by nature. Flock to Marion 2022
You can read more about this Voyage in the Birdlife South Africa Magazine (Vol. 10 No.4 May/June 2022) and Avontuur Afrika (#issue 18, who also used some of our images to cover this article).

Macaroni Penguins Porpoising next to the vessel, like all the Penguins on this voyage, are very hard to pick up in the water. Flock to Marion 2022

Black-bellied Storm Petrel Finning on the water, one of the tips we learned how to tell this species from some of the other Storm Petrels. Flock to Marion 2022
Photographic equipment used on the Flock to Marion:
Canon R5 with RF 100-500 Canon Lens
Canon 1DX with 16-35 Canon EF lens
Apple I Phone 13 pro
Samsung Note 10
DJI Mavic Air S2
Thanks for sharing their images from the #Flocktomarion2022:
Tristan Spurway
Mike Buckham
Gregg Scott-Brown
Otto whitehead
Final Species list as Published by Birdlife South Africa: (our Species witnessed are ticked)




White-headed Petrel, we can still hear the excitement in Johnathan Rossouw’s voice as he called the first one we witnessed on the Flock. Flock to Marion 2022

Yes we did dress up for the Main Function. To be honest, we believe we should have won hands down. Mr. Mark Anderson. Flock to Marion 2022

Subantarctic Shearwater, what a tough little speedster to get in the frame and locked on focus. Flock to Marion 2022
Whale birds of the Southern Ocean
Prions (pachyptila) Afrikaans: Walvisvoel | Prion is derived from the Greek for ‘saw‘, referring to the serrated margin of the upper mandible created by a series of palatal lamellae. These filter small prey, functioning similarly to baleen in whales, giving the Prions the nickname of whale birds.

All species breed in summer in burrows, rock crevices or caves. These small, blue-grey petrels with a dark ‘M’ across the upper wing, dark tail tip and mostly white underparts are the most abundant seabirds in the Southern Ocean.

Slender-billed Prion: Even in hand, they can be hard to identify with certainty and very difficult to photograph; 3 million pairs breed at sub-antarctic islands in summer. Salvin’s Prion: Even in the hand, they can be hard to identify with certainty and very difficult to photograph; 5 million pairs breed at Prince Edward Islands in summer. Flock to Marion 2022

Broad-billed Prion: Even in the hand, they can be hard to identify with certainty and very difficult to photograph. In summer, 2-3 million pairs breed at Tristan da Cunha and Gough Islands. Flock to Marion 2022

Antarctic Prion: Even in the hand, they can be hard to identify with certainty and very difficult to photograph. 20 million pairs breed at sub-antarctic islands in summer. Flock to Marion 2022
In Support of the MOUSE FREE MARION Project, please donate to this critically important cause. Hopefully, the project will commence in 2024.
Equipment used on the Flock to Marion:
Canon R5 with the Canon RF100-200 Lens
3 Comments
What an amazing adventure 🔥 Your vojage will live on in this wonderful record and outstanding photo’s 👏🏻 Where to next ?!
Flock to the Mozambican Channel in November 2023 for some special tropical birds, we will be counting the days
[…] As the MSC Orchestra sailed out of Cape Town Harbour, we needed to pinch ourselves to ensure this wasn’t a dream. Finally, after three years of careful planning and many hurdles, Birdlife South Africa’s Flock to Marion was underway. We were heading into the roughest, stormiest ocean in the world. We were going where no cruise liner had dared venture, the Southern Ocean, specifically Prince Edward and Marion Island. […]